The Glaug (グラージ) (pronounced "Glaaj") is a larger and more heavily armed tactical pod used by unit commanders in the mecha forces of the Zentradi Army, first seen in the Super Dimension Fortress Macross television series.
Increasing the firepower beyond the standard Regult Battle Pod, the Glaug is built with two arm units each holding one large-bore and one small-bore impact cannons and the Glaug also is equipped with a rare long range top-mounted, electron beam cannon.
Along with the standard two anti-personnel cannons on the front ventral side of the fuselage, the Glaug can operate in nearly any capacity. To handle the increased power demands, the Glaug has a much more powerful single fusion reactor. Like the Reguld, the Glaug is ground based within a planetary atmosphere but uses numerous vernier thrusters and powerful dual engines for space flight.
Increasing the firepower beyond the standard Regult Battle Pod, the Glaug is built with two arm units each holding one large-bore and one small-bore impact cannons and the Glaug also is equipped with a rare long range top-mounted, electron beam cannon.
Along with the standard two anti-personnel cannons on the front ventral side of the fuselage, the Glaug can operate in nearly any capacity. To handle the increased power demands, the Glaug has a much more powerful single fusion reactor. Like the Reguld, the Glaug is ground based within a planetary atmosphere but uses numerous vernier thrusters and powerful dual engines for space flight.
Quamzin Kravshera, the Pilot is an interesting character and is worth to read more about the character.
This kit was certainly bought before the turn of the millennia. It has a "Macross 15th Anniversary" stickered (or was actually printed?) on the front of the box. This year is the 40th Anniversary for Macross which means the kit is at least 25 yrs old. So I could have bought it in 1996.
This kit has the signature of an 80s basic model kit which you have every assembly being a L & R halves joint together in the middle. Alignments are so bad basically 50% of the time are spent patching and filing away the seam to even them out.
Every movable joints are plastic on plastic, no polycaps, and no ball joints. I will dedicate the last part of this blog entry to show what minor modification I have done to mainly try to bring out the details and also to improve the articulations - mainly for posing rather than playability. The main motivation is to want to pose it the same manner of how it was depicted on the box artwork.
This kit has the signature of an 80s basic model kit which you have every assembly being a L & R halves joint together in the middle. Alignments are so bad basically 50% of the time are spent patching and filing away the seam to even them out.
Every movable joints are plastic on plastic, no polycaps, and no ball joints. I will dedicate the last part of this blog entry to show what minor modification I have done to mainly try to bring out the details and also to improve the articulations - mainly for posing rather than playability. The main motivation is to want to pose it the same manner of how it was depicted on the box artwork.
I spent a few days studying the build instruction sheet, watching whatever youtube video available on how other modeller build it and how the kit looks like after completion. Then study the parts and what kind of modification need to be done and what materials require for modification. All these got sorted out in my mind and when the nipper cut its first part, it is hitting the ground running.
A lot of decals are not applied simply because the decal shit has deteriorated beyond usage. it broke into a zillion pieces when you try to move the waterslide out of the backing paper. Painstakingly I managed to put up a few essential ones with help of decal setter solution. Once dried quickly seal it up with top coat.
Pictures here show the kit completed with a coat of gloss finishing. It is meant to serve as a base for weathering to begin before sealing it all up with a matt finishing. But I fell in love with the glossy look so decided to keep it in this form for now.
I am satisfy with the outcome of this build. If you have seen a direct build of this same kit, you'd see a stiff looking Glaug without life. My piece at least it can make a more natural pose and full of life.
A lot of decals are not applied simply because the decal shit has deteriorated beyond usage. it broke into a zillion pieces when you try to move the waterslide out of the backing paper. Painstakingly I managed to put up a few essential ones with help of decal setter solution. Once dried quickly seal it up with top coat.
Pictures here show the kit completed with a coat of gloss finishing. It is meant to serve as a base for weathering to begin before sealing it all up with a matt finishing. But I fell in love with the glossy look so decided to keep it in this form for now.
I am satisfy with the outcome of this build. If you have seen a direct build of this same kit, you'd see a stiff looking Glaug without life. My piece at least it can make a more natural pose and full of life.
THE BUILD
SEAM LINES
Every damn parts were simply molded into 2 halves and to glued them together to form the final shape. It didn't get as simple as this. But these 80s kits have some glaring issues -
1. The alignment of the details are off (see top portion picture).
2. Edges on the 2 halves did not come together nicely. There are one side of the part sitting higher than the other side after joining. Suggest better to nip off the locating pin and make the alignment manually to achieve the best match. Filling still need to be done regardless but it could cut down just a tiny bit of work having both sides more or less aligned.
3. There is supposed to have a rounded "bulb" inside the concave indent. Just look at how it is direct from the box. I decided to just remove it with a ball grinder and to replace a perfect shaped bulb later.
3. There is supposed to have a rounded "bulb" inside the concave indent. Just look at how it is direct from the box. I decided to just remove it with a ball grinder and to replace a perfect shaped bulb later.
FLASHES
Plastic flashes are extinct these days. You'd get them when you buy 3rd party brand (the low grade ones) usually from China. Here in this kit, you are talking Bandai. The indisputable gold standard in Mecha Plastic Model kit manufacturer. One would argue that this is a bought over mold from Imai models (now defunct), it is understandable for the lower quality.
Again I uses a turning tool to clean up the flashes. Easiest correction in my opinion.
DETAILING
These are the claws that grab the engine reactor. Originally it came as a whole solid piece - see left top piece which I have already made a hole in the middle. Again using a turning tool to slowly dig and grind away the middle solid piece to eventually get a claw-like look.
CUTTING
Cutting away along the blackened portion will make the curve with a slightly larger radius. This will allow the feet an added side to side articulation angle. It also means the legs can be spread wider while still having the feet pads level-flat on the ground.
STRENGTHEN
That black "ring" are actually a socket for the arms. Basically just glued onto the surface without any guiding pins or such. If by any chance the ring pops off when the 2 halves of the cockpit were joint, then there is no way to rectify it unless opening up the cockpit halves. That will be disaster after the kit is all done, complete and painted. Not leaving it to luck, I uses a healthy amount of putty to wrap around the sides. It actually achieved 2 things I wanted. -
1. To provide a firm grip on the socket part.
2. To add some weight to the cockpit.
JOINTS
Oh boy this is my favorite part of this modification. Lego Ball n Socket pieces were used for the hip and arm joints. These are held in place with putty as well. Incidentaly, the round pegs fits perfectly into the arm socket. I have actually considered the orthodox approach of buying some Kotobukiya's joints but the sturdier Lego joints should be the better choice. Haven't look back. Need to stock up these joints for future projects... a Queadluun Rau beckons.
TEST FIT - FORM FIT & FUNCTION
The most enjoyable moment is when you put every together to see the Glaug forming up and become a recognizable form. This is also an important step - to me - to fiddle the kit to lookout for any area that need further patching or to decide whether a more major operation require.
And it is also during this time, procedure for painting is being planned.
MASKING & PAINTING
Nothing special here. Every serious modeller will do this (although I'm a not-so-serious modeller). It is really a chore to do masking cos it is not a one time thing. Mask, paint, then mask again, paint another colour etc. With a little perseverance, the outcome can be very satisfying.
This is one of those kit that upon opening that box, it looks to be a piece of cake. Perhaps a 30mins job (or even less) that it could be done. True to that, if you build direct from the box without a care for the colour and the roughness.
We are all spoilt in these days and age when even a cheap HG Gundam kit will have enough colour separation and a solid engineered parts layout it can be build straight away. Applying a few decals and it is good to go onto the display shelf.
So in order to make this kit from the 80s presentable, a lot more work need to be put in. I am actually not looking forward for a renewal to this kit. Think I'm done with this in da house. But I do hope someone make a good 1/100 Regult Pod. Maybe not the standard one but the Scout version.
Hope to be able to start building the Queadluun Rau soon. It is the same age as the Glaug...
1 comment:
Those Lego joints are a great idea!
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